Showing posts with label Badlands. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Badlands. Show all posts

Friday, August 17, 2012

South Dakota Supreme: Part 1

My road trip story last left us foraging for a hotel room in Sioux Falls, South Dakota. I was excited to be in South Dakota because I had some cool things planned for us during our brief stay. I crammed 900 miles into our first two days of traveling so we could linger a bit in the state best known for being home to Mount Rushmore. In fact, I drove about half that distance over days three and four on the road. But the bulk of our touristy fun happened in South Dakota during this leg of our trip, so we were pretty much always going at warp speed.

Falls Park, Sioux Falls, South Dakota
There was no way we were leaving Sioux Falls Tuesday morning without paying a visit to Falls Park, home to the waterfalls for which the city is named. The park has a very unique stone landscape, and was the locale of a former massive mill that harnessed the power of the falls in its operations. It is clean and well maintained, and kind of urban. Looking over the falls and seeing the city in the background felt a little odd. Not exactly a setting with a natural feel. But beautiful nonetheless. We did our best to see as much as we could in the sweltering heat (again, 100+), knowing that our day was just beginning. Much to Bethany's bitter disappointment, we did not check out the restaurant, with its promises of ice cream in the window sign. We did do a little shopping in the gift shop, but we did not go to the top of the lookout tower, which was housed in the same building. We probably should have done that, but when I say sweltering, I mean that as in I was about to lose all of my children to heat stroke induced meltdowns. It was time to move on, lookout tower or not.

The next stop I had my heart set on, the Ingalls Homestead, was going to take us a couple hours out of our way. I knew we had a really long day ahead of us, and the kids were already worn out from walking around Falls Park. I was about to poll everybody to see if they wanted to take the time to do it or not, when Connor excitedly asked if we would be going to the Ingalls Homestead next. The kids were all geeked, as it turned out. I was half relieved because I had been wanting to go to this place for years, and half dreading the excursion because it meant a lot more driving. I had also sort of been prepping the kids by playing a CD copy of On the Banks of Plum Creek in the van. No, we were not actually going to the real banks of Plum Creek, but it was the only audio version of a Laura Ingalls Wilder book available at the library the day I went in. It did kind of get us in the mood.

Years ago I learned of the Ingalls Homestead in what was to become one of my favorite books, Storybook Travels, by Colleen Dunn Bates and Susan La Tempa. This tourist attraction specially tailored for Laura fans calls itself "Laura's Living Prairie". The Ingalls family actually lived and walked on the very land we were standing upon. The structures on the property are not original and were not the ones used and lived in by the Ingalls family. However, they do a good job of demonstrating what life was like for them during that time.

The first stop at the Homestead is the gift shop, where visitors can peruse the somewhat over-priced selection of prairie-themed items. Curious guests are invited to sit down and watch a short film about the Homestead before investing ten bucks per person (ages 5 and up) to tour the grounds and partake in all activities. I drove all this way, we were partaking. No question.

Ingalls Homestead, De Smet, South Dakota
Remember it was a miserably hot day. But we trudged all around the Ingalls Homestead, sweating our butts off all the while. We saw a dugout house, built into the side of a little hill, with dirt for walls and grass growing on the inside (ewwwwwwww!), a shanty, and a house built to resemble what Ma's Little House would have looked like. The kids got to pump water out of a water pump, just like Laura, and drink the cool water. They learned how to make simple toys out of a piece of yarn and a button, and had the opportunity to do laundry with a washboard, hand-operated ringer, and clothesline. There were pony rides, but it was too hot so I deftly discouraged that. In the building housing Laura's Travel Exhibit, we were able to climb into a covered wagon and marvel how a family could fit all of their possessions inside, along with the family itself, and travel long distances. We took a covered wagon ride out to the one room schoolhouse, similar to the one Laura taught at briefly before getting married. At the school house, costumes were available to anyone who wanted to really feel the moment. Mattie very briefly wore one, and she was so cute, but it only lasted a few minutes. Again....too hot! Kittens galore were scattered around the hay-roof barn, and kittens never fail to captivate my kids. They also all got to try their hand at making rope, which they were able to keep. We missed some other activities, such as making corn husk dolls, but what we did do was really fun. Plus being where Laura once was, well that was surreal. The Homestead is also a campground, and campers have the option of sleeping in covered wagons. I want to do that, but maybe not when it's 108 degrees outside.

One thing I noticed in South Dakota was that people were generally friendly and trusting. Gas stations allowed me to pump before paying. At the Ingalls Homestead, refrigerators were in a few locations around the grounds, stocked full of ice cold water for sale, with a sign asking visitors to pay on the way out. The honor system? How positively novel!

We enjoyed our time in De Smet at the Ingalls Homestead. I would recommend it to any Little House fan, or even just anyone interested in history. The hands-on aspect ups the fun quotient considerably, too. Was it worth the 80 miles or so it tacked onto our day? Absolutely, yes. I would do it again in a heartbeat.

By the time we left the Homestead we were starving, so we hurriedly slapped together some sandwiches and ate in the van on the way to our next stop: the Corn Palace in Mitchell, South Dakota. The Corn Palace is exactly the type of kitchy tourist attraction I envisioned encountering on our cross country road trip. Every year a new theme is chosen, and the entire exterior of the building is decorated with corn, depicting pictures and scenes in keeping with the theme. You can go in (FREE), where you will find more corn decorations, pictures of Corn Palace decorations of the past, a snack counter, restrooms, and a massive gift shop. We could barely pry the kid away. It's really close to the highway, and an easy and relatively quick diversion. Worth a stop for sure!
Corn Palace, Mitchell, South Dakota

Finally, finally, we were on our way to Interior, where I had made our reservations for the night. Interior is home to the east entrance of Badlands National Park, another must see attraction on our list. What I didn't realize is that one must actually drive through a stretch of the National Park to get to Interior. Or at least, that's what my GPS told me, and I was in no mood or mind frame to question my GPS. By the time we were getting close, it was dark out. It wasn't exactly storming, because there was no rain to speak of, but the sky was lit up with frequent lightning flashes. I came upon the entrance gate to the park, which was unmanned because it was late, and drove through, silently praying that we were going the right way because we were kind of in the middle of nowhere, with no other vehicles in sight.

I didn't really know what to expect of the Badlands. But I do know that I didn't expect my first experience driving through this amazing landscape would be in pitch black darkness, with creepy flashes of lightning illuminating my surroundings every minute or so. To say it was freaky is a huge understatement. We appeared to be the only ones in this part of the park, and it was so completely dark in between flashes. Night driving isn't my strongest suit to begin with. It was a stressful drive. We were exhausted. My brain was cooked. And when we got to our motel, the Badlands Budget Host Inn, we found that the office was locked and closed for the night. I had a moment of panic (middle of nowhere) before noticing a sign on the door directing customers to a trailer out back when arriving after hours. Said trailer was apparently the home of the manager. My mom was questioning my choice in motel by this point, but she gamely got out and knocked on the trailer door until a lady answered and handed her a real live key, telling her we could check in at the office in the morning. I had done my research on Trip Advisor (not fool proof, as I learned all too well another night), and sure enough our room was spotlessly clean and had two very comfortable beds. The carpet had just been cleaned too. The next morning, when we walked over to the office/gift shop/ restaurant, we realized we were privy to some fantastic views of the Badlands. Breakfast was not included, but our rate with a AAA discount was quite low, which left ample room in the budget to buy breakfast. Camp sites are also available at the Badlands Budget Host Inn. It was simple, but a nice place. I wish we could have stayed a few days. There are no televisions in the rooms. I call that awesome. When (not if) we return to the Badlands, this is the place we'll be staying. (Incidentally, the options in regards to accommodations are extremely limited.)

South Dakota was so incredible, I can't quite squeeze it all into one post. Stay tuned for Part 2...

This quartzite is everywhere at Falls Park. Prisoners at one time hauled it from the bluff to build a prison.

Notice the remains of the old mill in the background. Falls Park, Sioux Falls, South Dakota
Falls Park, Sioux Falls, South Dakota

Notice the city church in the background. Falls Park, Sioux Falls, South Dakota
Covered wagon campers at the Ingalls Homestead, De Smet, South Dakota
Could you pack the entire contents of your household into this wagon? Ingalls Homestead, De Smet, South Dakota
Living in a shanty would be too close for comfort! Ingalls Homestead, De Smet, South Dakota
We rode in this wagon to the one room school house. Ingalls Homestead, De Smet, South Dakota
Lessons in the one room school house. Ingalls Homestead, De Smet, South Dakota
Making rope at the Ingalls Homestead, De Smet, South Dakota
Maybe we need a washboard and ringer at home to get everyone all excited about doing laundry? Ingalls Homestead
Close up of the corn decorations, Mitchell Corn Palace, Mitchell, South Dakota
My little cobs. Inside the Corn Palace, with corn mural in the background. Mitchell, South Dakota

South Dakota Supreme: Part 2

South Dakota Supreme: Part 1 chronicled our first day in South Dakota. This post covers our second day.

View from motel parking lot, Interior, South Dakota
Wednesday was another banner day that I had been excitedly waiting for. I was grateful for the 10 a.m. check-out at the Badlands Budget Host Inn because it got us moving earlier than usual. After breakfast, we got back on scenic route 240, the Badlands Loop Road, and drove west through the rest of the National Park to the Wall entrance. I didn't really know what to expect from the Badlands. From what we saw, it was a lot of amazing, other-worldly scenery and some hiking trails. I think we drove past a visitor center in the darkness of the previous night, but on our drive-through in daylight we didn't really see much at all other than scenic overlooks. We got out once or twice for pictures and noticed signs warning of rattle snakes. A concerned man looked at the swarm of kids crawling out of my minivan and informed me that he had seen some rattlers himself and that we should be sure to stay on the trails. I assured him we weren't going anywhere, just stretching our legs and taking some photos. None of us were dressed for hiking. Another time, I hope. There was some construction going on, so at one point we had to pull over and wait for a leader truck to guide us past the work zone. The road was down to one lane, and there was no wiggle room, so they had to make sure traffic was only moving in one direction at a time. This took a few extra minutes, but wasn't terrible.


The Wall Drug backyard, Wall, South Dakota
We exited Badlands National Park in the town of Wall. So far we had seen approximately 573 signs advertising Wall Drug, the world's biggest drug store. Who can resist 573 signs? We had to investigate. Well, it's big alright, but not as I had imagined. Wall Drug is basically a block filled with stores that are connected to each other. You can get from one to the other from the inside. But you have to pay for your items from one area before moving onto another, which definitely made it feel more like separate stores than one big store. There was quite a bit to look at, and it was neat-o. But it was also crammed to the max with merchandise and tourists. I probably would have enjoyed it more if I had no children with me, or if my kids were older and I could trust all of them to meet me at a certain spot and time, so we could all look at what we wanted to look at without irritation, confusion, and frustration. Since that was not the case, I was about to blow my top after a short time. I was sick of their obsession with gift shops already. And I am especially not such a big fan of crowded shops. We saw what the fuss was about and got back on the highway.


Our next planned stop was one I had been dreaming of for years. We reached the Ramada in Rapid City, where I had made reservations ahead of time. For once we arrived before check-in and killed some time eating lunch at the mediocre 50s style diner, Arnold's, that's next to the hotel. As soon as we could, we got to our room, unpacked, and freshened up before leaving for Mount Rushmore. I have always wanted to see Mount Rushmore up close and personal. I'm not sure why, but maybe it's because the famous national monument is just so iconic and patriotic. We had all been looking forward to it, and we were all excited.


Mount Rushmore was about a 30 minute drive from our hotel. A twisty, curvy, up and down hilly drive through the Black Hills. The drive was a little more intense than I had been expecting. In fact, I wasn't really expecting intense at all. We had talked about staying for the 9 p.m. lighting ceremony so we could see the monument all lit up. But doubt started creeping into my mind...I wasn't sure I wanted to make the drive back to the hotel in the dark.


There they are! Mount Rushmore, Keystone, South Dakota
Before we even went through the gates, we had a few glimpses of the Presidents. They were right there. Wowsers! We paid the $11 parking fee (this is the only entrance fee), found a parking spot in the parking structure and went in. I don't know quite how to describe it, except to say it was more built-up and modern than I had expected. The setting was beautiful, both natural and man-made aspects. Seeing Mount Rushmore was amazing. We took a lot of pictures, browsed through the visitor center (skipped the film, which I wish we hadn't), had over-priced ice cream cones, and did some shopping. There is a trail that allows visitors to get closer, but it started raining and I worried about the little girls slipping on the endless stairs leading up, up, up. Plus the rain confirmed for me that I did not want to drive back to the hotel in the dark. So we decided to leave earlier than we had planned and skip the lighting ceremony.

Okay, all this build up to see Mount Rushmore, then we finally got there and we did not take full advantage of the situation at all. I have regrets, but the kids were happy and satisfied. If they had seemed heart broken because they weren't going to see the Presidents lit up, I probably would have caved. If they had begged to watch the film in the visitor center, or pleaded to walk the trail, I don't think I could have said no. But they didn't. We were all tired. It was a long day. That's the problem with this kind of trip. But at the end of the day, we saw Mount Rushmore, and I'm so glad we did.


On the way back we decided to simplify dinner and pick up some pizza to eat in the room. We found a Little Caesars and headed back. The kids were also chomping at the bit to try out the totally awesome looking pool they caught a glimpse of when we checked in.


A word about the Rapid City Ramada.When I called to reserve our room, I was asked if I wanted a room by the pool or a room with an exterior door, so I could pull right up to park. I chose the exterior door because I thought it would be less trouble when unpacking for the night. But I didnt' want to have to walk outside to get to the pool, so I asked about that and was assured there were indoor corridors too and not to worry about that. So I had imagined that the room would have both an exterior door and an interior door. But it did not. The set up is kind of odd. The pool is literally in the same room as the lobby. There are rooms all around the pool, inside. Then there are the rooms with the exterior doors. There are some corridors, but there is definitely some outdoor walking involved to get to the pool, the front desk, and the breakfast room. It ended up not being a bad walk once we figured out the lay of the land, but it was very different.


When we checked in, before our trek to Mount Rushmore, there was one kid swimming in the pool. When we came back after dinner, the place was jam packed. My heart sank. Then I felt the water. Icy. Crap. "Bethany, take Mattie in the pool, please." Yes, I am that mom. It's too bad, because it really was an awesome pool. It was shallow and perfect for kids, with zero entry on one side (picture walking into a lake from the beach, without the pesky sand and rocks). Lucy lasted all of two minutes or so, then joined me on the pool side because she couldn't take the cold. Mathilda had some fun jumping to Bethany several times, but I had to put an end to that before long because she was shivering and her teeth were chattering. Bethany stayed in for a few more minutes, and Connor was the last hold out, but we only had to wait for him for about 10 minutes or so. Have I mentioned that I hate freezing cold swimming pools? Well, I hate freezing cold crowded swimming pools even more. For the first time in our trip so far, the night was cool, and we had to walk partially outside to get back to our room. Not a huge deal, just not exactly ideal.

Breakfast the next morning was a mixed bag. They had a great selection, for sure. I love complimentary breakfasts with lots of options. But, no surprise after our experience at the pool, the breakfast room was very crowded. We nabbed a four-top for the kids the moment the previous diners finished their food, and then I commenced to eat breakfast while standing up. A couple of nice ladies from a neighboring table had two empty chairs, so they invited me to sit with them. My mom joined us when she came back with her food. We had some pleasant conversation, and it all worked out. The thing is (you'd probably never guess, right?) that I am not crazy for crowded places. Especially places that are crowded to the point of barely being able to walk, like the Ramada breakfast room in Rapid City, South Dakota. Note to self: I need to learn to be more flexible. In progress.

Our time in South Dakota was all too brief, but filled with wonderful, long-lasting memories. There was more I had hoped to be able to do, but we had places to be and people to see, so we did our absolute best with the time we had available to us. In Rapid City, I really wanted to check out Dinosaur Park and Storybook Island, two free kid-friendly attractions. I also wanted to partake in the City of Presidents walking tour, to get a good look at every one of the life sized presidential statues adorning the street corners of Rapid City. The Museum of Geology sounds interesting, as well as historic Deadwood. Jewel Cave National Monument, Wind Cave National Park, and Custer State Park all sound amazing and are practically within spitting distance of Mount Rushmore. I discovered that I love South Dakota, and would like to, at some point, fully dedicate an entire vacation to this beautiful state.

Badlands National Park, South Dakota
Badlands National Park, South Dakota

Lucy is holding her handcrafted rope from the Ingalls Homestead. Badlands National Park, South Dakota
Badlands National Park, South Dakota

Badlands National Park, South Dakota
Badlands National Park, South Dakota

I can't believe we're here! Mount Rushmore, Keystone, South Dakota
Mount Rushmore, Keystone, South Dakota